Key West

Now we have another reason to be glad we chose this winter to do this trip. Apparently the previous record for snowfall in Green Bay, set in 1891, has been broken at 82 inches. The average snowfall in a season is just under 50 inches – crazy! We hired a service for lawn care and snow removal if it snows more than 2 inches so we’re getting the bills. Paul is sure he would have had to buy a bigger snow blower to do the job! Some other stats: the average high in the Keys for late March is 80 degrees and the average LOW is 70 degrees. Sunrise is now at 7:25 am and sunset at 7:40 pm.

We had a nice sail of about 30 miles from Bahia Honda down to Key West on Sat the 22nd. We were heading southwest and the winds were east/southeast – what a novelty. I almost forgot what heeling felt like but Ginger remembered that she doesn’t like it! We were doing between 7 and 8 knots most of the way. We did have to don the foul weather gear as some rain moved through; fortunately no high winds with it.

We called ahead to get a mooring ball at Garrison Bight Harbor – arranged through Key West City Marina. It was really tricky getting hooked up to the ball as there’s no pennant or line to grab, plus the wind was pretty gusty to add to the fun. Thankfully a nice couple in their dinghy saw our dilemma and gave us a hand.

I can’t really go into detail what we did every day but we did spend four nights on the mooring ball and went “into town” every day except Tuesday when it was just too rough to take the dinghy to shore. We headed west to the old town historic district and seaport or east to more “regular” type of shopping. We also used the bus system quite a lot; 50 cent fare for us oldsters over 55. The actual island of Key West is about 4 miles long and 2 miles across.

Here’s a picture of our view from the mooring field that day. We know from experience that we would have gotten drenched in the dinghy!

We heard from some people that Key West was “ruined” since the cruise ships starting docking here, that it used to be quaint and kind of sleepy. Now it rather reminds me of “Wisconsin Dells South” times 50 with a t-shirt shop on every corner. It’s got quite a bar scene if you’re into that and the sunset celebration on Mallory Square is a must see. I took tons of pictures but here’s just a few:

Lots of interesting architecture and lush foliage. This is the former home of Dr. Joseph Porter, first health officer of the State of Florida from 1889 to 1917.

This has got to be the most unusual Walgreens we'd ever seen. The scooter and bicycles you see out front are everywhere.Now these are what you call "House" boats.

On Wed the 26th we headed over to the Sunset Marina on Stock Island for two nights. This was a new plateau in dockage fees for us: $2.75/ft and when the 7.5% sales tax is added on it’s a whopping $118 per night for staying on your own boat. It was a treat to have internet, cable tv, showers and laundry available though. We were able to get the bikes out and had a nice ride to see a lot of the sights in the historic district. There are rental bikes and scooters everywhere so motorists are pretty used to watching out for you. Here are a few more sights of the area:

The crow of a rooster is heard quite often throughout the day. We only saw one hen with chicks but saw lots of roosters. Evidently they're descendants of the chickens brought over by the Cubans in the late 1800s.
Below is a popular photo spot for tourists at the southernmost spot in the U.S. Only 90 miles from Cuba as the sign says.










We never saw more than one of these huge cruise ships docked but evidently at times there are three of them. They sure take up a lot of space.
This is one of the colorful characters around Key West. His passenger had fun barking his way down the street!

On Friday we saw a manatee up close and personal right on our dock. Another boater gave it a head rub but I'd read you're not supposed to touch them; he said it felt spongy! Most of them have slash marks from encounters with boat propellers (so sad). I wished Alison was here to see it but I took some pictures for her.







We made a quick run on the bikes for a few groceries then headed off to anchor for one night off the historic seaport district. We had checked out where the dinghy dock was the day before and since the winds had calmed down it wasn’t too bad of a ride. I carried Ginger around in the Snugli baby carrier that straps on my front and thought with all the unusual characters we wouldn’t stand out in the crowd but I was wrong - she got lots of attention! Here are some of the sights from Mallory Square:

The one-man band; the crowd at Mallory Square and the crowd trying to get a picture of the setting sun.

Saturday morning the 29th was farewell to Key West. We’re off to anchor at Newfound Harbor off Big Pine Key on the way back to Marathon, FL.

Bahia Honda Key State Park

We left Boot Key Harbor in Marathon Friday am and fueled up at Pancho’s. We bought just over 23 gallons of diesel at $4.08.9 per gal plus 7.5% sales tax; the bill was $101 – our highest yet. We were headed for Bahia Honda Key State Park on Hawk Channel, a gap between a barrier reef and the Keys away from the Atlantic Ocean. We couldn't travel the Gulf side because of the depths and our draught of 4' 8". We motored as the wind was just about on our nose heading west/southwest; where are those easterly winds when you need them? Here are some pictures of the park where we anchored for two nights.


This is the view of our anchorage from atop the old R.R. bridge; we're the boat on the far left. The bridge on the upper left is the new one. The sign below explains the history of the bridge.

This is the "Calypso Gypsy" leaving Bahia Honda through the old bridge and a view of the beach.


We spent two nights here and left for Key West on Sat. March 22nd (Happy Birthday again to our sister-in-law, Jeanne!) Paul got to do a bit of snorkeling - that's the good news. The bad news is he saw some damage to our rudder which we need to get repaired. As of this writing, this is our fifth night in Key West but more on that later. We're still safe and sound; Em is still on board but may have headed home on Monday if there had been a way to do it! There are certainly ups and downs to this live aboard life; Monday was a down day; mooring balls aren't fun in high winds. Today is much better; we're in a marina for the first time in 12 nights =)

Naples to The Keys

On Palm Sunday, March 16th, we finally made it to the Keys!

To backtrack a bit – On Thursday the 13th we got to see some boater friends from our home marina: Tom H. of “Glissade” (Judy was out sick) and Kurt and Jan of “Aftershock”. We took in some of the sights of Naples and the live music along Third Street. It was so pretty with the lighted trees, colorful flowers, lovely fountains, the beautifully dressed people and the smell of money in the air! I overheard someone say they saw a pair of shoes for $1000 so we only window shopped. I would have felt like Julia Roberts' Vivian in Pretty Woman in my jeans and faded sweatshirt!

We left Naples about 9am the next day. Since sunrise isn’t until about 7:45am with the time change, it’s a little harder to get going early in the morning.


We were able to sail some heading south past Marco Island with a light southeastern breeze. Four knots and dropping wasn’t cutting it so the engine started up again and we motor-sailed. Later the wind came directly out of the south and temps were in the mid 70s but 3 miles off shore the air felt cooler at times. I went from jeans to shorts and back again a couple of times.

We’re now hearing the Coast Guard from Miami on the marine radio. We’re seeing fields of crab pots again that we need to avoid.

We anchored around 4:30pm. After being in the same area for so long, it was a novelty to spend 7 ½ hours on the water. We set anchor in Russell Pass, that’s near Everglades City. We anchored near Dan and Judy on m/v “Fanta Sea” who were in the slip next to us in Naples. We first met them back in Pebble Isle in TN. We set the anchor in 13ft of water (deep for these parts). Paul put out 100 ft of rode with 70 ft of it chain. We’re now in the Ten Thousand Islands portion of the Everglades National Park. The green arrow marks our anchorage.

We left Russell Pass with a destination of Little Shark River, about a 35-mile trip. Nothing real eventful about the day; a little sailing but mostly motor-sailing; our anometer (wind speed indicater) still isn’t working. Paul went up the mast in Cape Coral to check it out but couldn’t locate a problem. Little Shark River felt more like we were in the Everglades, which we were. Very humid and a little buggy with the return of “no-see-ums”; nasty little things that bite with no warning as you really don’t see or hear them, you just feel a bite and the next day you itch! It felt like boating in the “old days” – no cell phone coverage, no internet and just one TV channel (from Miami now). We think there was a manatee or two here but didn’t get a good view; just saw a snout come up for a breath a couple of times. There were nine boats anchored that we could see. This was the peaceful view ahead of us at sunset.


We put out a small stern anchor to keep from swinging around in the current, that turned out to be a mistake! Somehow it got snagged on something in the 13 ft. of water. As hard as Paul tried to free it by pulling the line then pulling it with the motor on the dinghy, it wouldn’t budge. So he had to cut the line and the sea god Neptune got our anchor; luckily it was a cheapie and we didn’t feel too badly.

The stars were amazing when I peeked out thinking it was the middle of the night; turns out it was 6am. I’ve never seen the Milky Way so clearly; now I don’t feel so cheated not seeing any stars during our Gulf crossing because of the cloud cover.

We left the anchorage just before 8am with Boot Key Harbor at Marathon our destination. Once we got back to the Gulf our heading was 179 degrees or almost due south with temps in the mid-80s and humid. Really no wind to speak of; all the sailboats we saw were motoring today. We encountered a lot of crab pot fields again. The depths were no more than 14 ft. all the way to  Marathon. When it got to 11 ft. you could see the bottom. It felt almost like we were in a glass-bottomed boat. We saw jellyfish, unusual plant life and 3 large sea turtles. This shows how flat calm and hazy it was.

We went under what is it’s the world’s only 7-mile bridge! Marathon is the largest city in the Middle Keys and supposedly got its' name from the construction workers task of building this huge bridge across a huge expanse of water - a marathon. It's since been replaced by a new taller bridge but the original one is still in place and is a popular spot for fishing and diving. It's a 45-mile drive by car from here down to Key West.

After we passed under it we were officially in the Atlantic Ocean for a bit. Next there was the 26-ft Boot Key Bridge which opens on request and we were in Boot Key Harbor. We called ahead to the city marina for a mooring ball assignment. They have a mooring field with about 200 mooring balls; a community unto itself with many live aboards. Once again we were assigned a mooring in the outer reaches so it was a LONG dinghy ride to the marina. It’s $20/day for the use of the mooring ball which includes use of the marina facilities, their dinghy dock and a weekly pumpout. Also, water for your boat costs 5 cents a gallon.

We took the dinghy to the Dockside Bar & Grill for something to eat and ran into another Looper couple, Ed and Connie from “Sea Estate”, who are on their way back from Key West. We first met them back in October at Pickwick Lake in TN and last saw them in Mobile, AL so it was fun to catch up with them. Their home port is Caseville, MI.

Monday was super windy, just about the opposite of the earlier dead calm picture. We were glad we got here when we did. The dinghy ride over on Monday was kind of exciting with all the spray hitting us (me on my back and Paul in his face as he was driving). Not so fun but the same thing will probably happen tomorrow as it’s supposed to continue to blow. Here’s the dinghy dock at the city marina. Soft dinghies on one side and hard ones on the other. You get an ID tag for your dinghy and even your bicycle if you leave it there. They have quite a system for keeping track of who’s paid up. The building on the right is the dockmaster's office, laundry, showers, tv, book exchange, etc. It's a lot like a warehouse inside - nothing fancy. The luxurious Cape Harbour Marina in Cape Coral is but a fond memory now!

I'm writing this on Tuesday at the library. We dinghied to a West Marine dock then I walked to a salon to get my hair cut. My lack of a sense of direction prevailed and I managed to turn the wrong way and walked about 40 minutes the opposite direction of the library. A kindly female sheriff's deputy gave me a ride as I was trying to call a cab. The adventure continues!

It's still blowing hard out of the east/southeast at 20 to 25 mph and we're all getting a bit tired of it. We'd planned to be here until Thursday, then head on south to Bahia Honda State Park but we'll have to wait and see what the weather situation is.

A HAPPY AND BLESSED EASTER TO ALL!

Moving south

We had a thunderstorm the night Eric left, Friday, the 7th. Saturday was cool (high of 68) and super windy. We saw there was a gust of 48 mph. There was a fundraiser for Ronald McDonald House going on at the Tarpon Point Marina so we checked that out then Alison and I went to a Flea Market. I thought the best thing was the produce market at the exits. Strawberries and tomatoes are abundant right now so we’ve been enjoying them. It got down to the 40s Saturday night so the space heater was put back into use. The boat seems a little larger inside with one 6’ 2” body gone; you’re missed though Eric (my comic relief!)


Sunday was another ride down to the Everglades; this time Jim and Lou were our tour guides. We had a picnic in an area of the Big Cypress National Preserve and got to see quite a few alligators and lots of birds: Ibis, Blue Heron, Egrets, Anhingas, Tri-Color Heron and Great Blue Heron. We also drove past the smallest US Post Office in the country in Ochopee, Florida. It was about the size of an old-time outhouse!

















I wish I could add the sound this Great Blue Heron makes - it's an ungodly loud SQUAAAAWK that startles you if it catches you unaware! The bird on the upper right is an American Anhinga. They have to spread their wings to dry out their feathers as they don't have an oily coating like most waterfowl. Our Creator knew this would better enable them to dive for fish.

We stopped for ice cream in Everglades City. Alison was hopeful of seeing a manatee there but no luck yet. We stopped in Naples on the way back and checked out the Tin City shops but it was near closing time so we had to hurry. Thanks again Jim and Lou for a fun day!

I really liked this fountain at the entrance of the Tarpon Point complex; but then I just really like fountains.

On Monday Paul moved the boat by himself from Tarpon Point heading back to Moss Marine in Ft Myers Beach (he did a great job solo!) Alison and I took the rental car to meet him there by way of the Tanger Outlet Shops which was great fun. The Florida weather hasn’t been very kind to Alison her last days here. The only chance she had to spend on the beach Monday aft. was cloudy and cool - jeans and sweatshirt weather. Oh well, it was still better than snow!

Tuesday the 11th was departure day for Alison and the manatee remained elusive. Time was growing short. Our last chance was to drive to Manatee Park in Ft Myers on our way to the airport. I had to stay in the car with Ginger as pets weren’t allowed. They came back with smiles as there was ONE manatee there enjoying the warmer water from the power plant nearby. Mission accomplished! We grabbed some lunch and headed for the airport. Upon pulling her suitcase from the trunk, we realized we neglected to bring her winter coat from the boat.  It was tucked away in a closet and never thought of again! Poor Alison with no winter coat headed to Green Bay via Kansas City then Milwaukee; not real direct. The last leg of the journey was to drive 1½ hrs from Green Bay to Wausau, WI where she arrived at 11pm – what a day! I hope you enjoyed your escape from winter; we sure enjoyed having you!

That night we got to have dinner and enjoy some time with Green Bay friends, Phil and Kathy, who have a condo on Ft Myers Beach. They’re friends from our Sail and Power Squadron group in Green Bay and are also babysitting some of our plants while we’re gone! We picked up some groceries on our way back to the boat – our last night with “wheels”.

On Wed. we left Ft Myers Beach after being in the area for three weeks; that’s a long time in one spot for us “restless” ones. After Paul returned our rented Toyota Corolla, we headed south to Naples and mostly motor-sailed the 23 or so miles.

This is someone we saw along the way leaving Ft. Myers Beach. Look at all the condos!
After we went through Gordon Pass into Naples Bay, one mansion was bigger than the next. I took lots of pictures but here’s a nice one if you like pink.


You've got to wonder who would live in a place like that! Actually it's probably only lived in for a very short part of the year. Another lifestyle that's for sure!
We’re at the City Dock in Naples for two nights. Jim and Lou, bless their hearts, drove up on a mission of mercy (we each left something behind that they retrieved for us). We had dinner together at “The Dock”, an extremely popular place right next to the marina.

On Thursday we got to see old friends, Jack and Joyce, for a bit. We first met them in Milwaukee in the early 70s when Jack and Paul worked together. They winter here in Naples and go back to Eau Claire, WI for the summer. Thanks for the great margarita – God bless!

We saw a pelican feeding frenzy on the way back to the boat. The fishermen throw scraps to them and they don’t give up easily! Charter fishing is very big here so the pelicans are well fed.

Tomorrow we're off to parts south; not sure where we'll find internet access again. We had a milestone this week. March 12th is exactly six months since we left Green Bay on our journey. 
ps: I think we’re over the disappointment about Brett Farve’s retirement – we still get comments about it. Alison was especially bummed since she was down here and didn’t get to cover the big story!

Cape Coral Area

We haven’t been covering very much water lately but we HAVE been having a lot of fun!

When we left the Matanzas Mooring Field we traveled on the Caloosahatchee River to Cape Harbor Marina in Cape Coral. It’s called a “yachting community” because it’s so much more than a marina. They gave us an excellent transient rate so we spent six nights there basking in the luxury. One of my favorite things there was the free use of the washer and dryer. I think I did laundry every day and washed just about everything in the boat! There was a pool, great showers and shops and eateries to check out. This is the view from our dock. We rented a car and were able to park it in a little lot adjacent to our dock so life was good!

Eric liked going to the beach so we made a couple trips over to Ft. Myers Beach. This is a view of the north side of the pier on a busy Sunday afternoon and Eric and I having lunch at Burrito A-Go-Go.

We took a drive south to the Big Cypress National Preserve and took an airboat ride through the mangroves. We only saw one alligator but it was lots of fun. This is Captain Lloyd taking another group out after us. The pelicans liked hitching a ride until the boat speeded up.

Here's one of Cape Coral's famous burrowing owls. Eric and I discovered it on a bike ride and later found on a website that they're quite well known and even have a web cam! Their burrows are surrounded with stakes and construction crews have to keep at least 10 feet from them. They're very cute and not afraid of people but if they start head bobbing they're getting nervous and you need to back off.


We did have one unfortunate (and expensive) thing happen while there. We had the water pump for the engine replaced; parts and labor came to around $500. It was only a slow leak but we didn't want to have it repaired somewhere like the Keys at ten times the cost. A Carver Rep was able to help us out; they had a boat for sale docked near us and Paul got to talking with him so it worked out pretty well.

Alison came in on Tuesday the 4th so we had she and Eric aboard for 3 nights - cozy on our boat. This is on the way from Cape Harbor to the Cape Coral Yacht Basin where we spent two nights.


They had a great time at a Twins spring training game in Ft. Myers. Alison was happy the Twins beat the Orioles 8 to 7; she's still a fan from her days at the U of MN.

We had a short but wild ride from the Cape Coral Yacht Basin over to Tarpon Point Marina. The wind was really gusting and we all got a bit wet (especially Alison) from the spray. There's also a beautiful pool here and we all got to enjoy it before the "cold" front moved in on Saturday. It did get down to the 40s last night but hit the mid-70s today so we can't complain.

This was at the airport when Eric flew back to chilly Milwaukee on Friday night. Alison is still with us for a little while longer. Thanks for all your help, Eric! He had the job of riding Paul's bike back to the marina for the rental car and bringing it back to our new spot (in some pretty high winds too!)